Firebreak between switch and desired sconce location
R2 posted : Obviously "old work" and also an outside wall.I'm trying to add a wall sconce in a corner that needs more light. I can get the power to the desired switch location, however between the...
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Re: Firebreak between switch and desired sconce location
R2 posted : Here is the image. Magnet on left is on the stud at approximately where the firebreak is. There's a white coat hanger sticking in the sconce (circle) hole - stopped from passing downward by...
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nunya posted : A d'versabit will work, but there's a *really good* chance it will grab the insulation and wad it up. Especially on "breakthrough". I personally hate d'versabits. I have several. I've...
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harald posted : Please tell us some more - this is a modern house apparently, with steel studs? In the dark ages, I opened the wall and cut the fire break many times, but this was always a balloon...
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R2 posted : Well, that's the 'joy' of an older house. :( This house is probably built over 40 years ago, and the actual room is a master bedroom that was made out of combining two smaller bedrooms -...
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R2 posted : See excessively long diatribe above. It's not lathe and plaster, is that typical chalk wall board. The studs are all standard 2x4's, I believe - no steel. The magnet is on a nail head of a...
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kherr posted : I'm glad that my '40s house was a total gut job.No insulationOne outlet per roomBedroom switch was by the windowTotally crap plumbing ... and being generousOctopus configured heating to...
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Re: Firebreak between switch and desired sconce location
R2 posted : Not sure if this really helps or not, because it's hard to see. There is a subtle thick line running down the middle of the ceiling towards the window. It is best seen at night with...
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R2 posted : Thank you for making me feel so much better about my house! Thank God for code.
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robbin posted : said by R2:Not sure why the brace is thereVery normal in this part of the country to have fire blocking between studs midway between floor and ceiling. Only shoddy construction doesn't...
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MacGyver posted : You need to do option 2 - I've also had to do this before to install a receptacle on a wall that didn't have one. If you call option 1, they're just going to use option 2 anyway.
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R2 posted : That's what I figured as well. I'll let you guys know what happens next.
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Re: Firebreak between switch and desired sconce location
MacGyver posted : Here's the size of the hole I made for my job. It wasn't very big and wasn't a big deal to patch, either. I put metal plates in to protect the wire as per code.I originally tried to...
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cybersaga posted : said by MacGyver:chisel it outCode usually calls for electrical wire to be an inch deep into the wood to avoid nails or screws going into the wire.If you chisel out the wood, you...
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PSWired posted : When I had to get a thermostat wire past a firebreak like you're desribing, I just used a utility knife to cut out a square of drywall, notch the firebreak, screw the drywall back in...
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Re: Firebreak between switch and desired sconce location
R2 posted : Kids, do not try this at home! Hell, adults, do not try this at home! Because - it is a huge time waster! :) I recognized way before I started that this project was not going to be to...
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R2 posted : I hate painting. I know, not a big deal, but it is just me. So, while I like PSWired's solution (I agree it sounds pretty easy - albeit also not to code), I just always want a solution that...
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Re: Firebreak between switch and desired sconce location
R2 posted : I bought a 16" long 'paddle' drill (about $9), and used that for drilling down. I had a 5" long paddle drill, and used that with two ~5-inch extenders to drill up (~15"). Believe it or not...
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cybersaga posted : I just bought one of those DeWalt drill adapters about a month ago. It's my new favourite tool.--Convert US$/gal to CA$/L
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R2 posted : Yeah, it's a pretty sweet thing to have in your tool box. I highly recommend it, and it only costs around 20 bucks. It is for ¼" hex drive only, but you can buy drills that fit into that...
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